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nTijuana. When the bus crossed the border, a spanish speaking guy was saying to the whole bus about some money thing. My fellow passenger told me thate should give him oneollar. Why? I csked. She said she did not know. I prepared a dollar. But when the guy passed though everyone he did not make any gesture asking me to pay so I did not pay. Then he was speaking to the whole bus again and said something The Chinito no paga. I just turned a deaf ear to him. This money is not included in the Greyhound ticket.

从萨利纳斯到蒂华纳灰狗走12小时。我还在担心如何入境的问题，因为我没有事先取得履行许可证。问了司机，说到蒂华纳长途车站再办。过境的时候，司机用西班牙文对乘客说了些赜�100块钱的事情。旁边一个女的告诉我， 我们每人要给他一块钱。我说为什么？她说不知道。我想一块就一块吧。不过那个人并没有伸手来要。我也就没理他。本来就没这么一说。到现在也搞不清楚那钱是干什么的。碰到这个时候，装听不懂就是了。他们不会追着你要。估计是属于募捐类的。

At Tijuana bus terminal I found out that first class buses had all been booked out. I could not wait, since I had to be in Oaxaca before Dec. 23rd. I had no choice but to buy an economic class. The economic class traveled on the same road as the first class, so there was no danger of being robbed, but the bus was old and one of its shock absorbers was not functioning, so I had to endure much bumping. The toilet was unbearable. There was no water to flush it so sometimes the toilet was full of shit. The economic class was 130 dollars while the primary class was 150 dollars. 1 dollar is 12 to 13 pesos.

到了蒂华纳没有买到去墨西哥城的一等车的票，只好买经济车。这种车也是大巴高靠背的，只是陈旧一些。不过我坐的这辆，后边有个减震器坏了，结果40小时里常常挨颠。这种车比一等车便宜20多美元。比较讨厌的是厕所里没水。后来都屎满为患了。我还想学学雷锋，下一站要一桶水冲冲。不过到了下一站，车辆自己去做清洁了。 雷锋没有当成。

从蒂华纳到墨西卡利一段，要翻越大山。这里的大山都是怪石嶙峋，很有看头。山谷地带也是荒原地貌。可能美国西南部连同墨西哥北部这一大块都是荒漠之地。等车开进哈里斯克省，就看到一些青葱的农田了。

Nothing really interesting happened during the 40 hours from TJ to DF. In DF, I was amazed to find long lines of people buying ADO bus tickets to go down south. I could not get a ticket of the same day, but only one for early next morning. I deposited my luggage, went to the city center to kill time and returned to the bus terminal around 10 pm. I had to spend the whole night there. I found that the seats at Mexico Norte Terminal were designed in such a way that you could not sink into the metal chair to doze off. Many people were sleeping on the floor. The night was cold and I had my warm jacket packed with the luggage. When I asked the luggage deposit if I could get my jacket the guy said there was a surveillance camera and they could not just do that. For the whole night I moved around from one waiting place to another, slept a while and walked around to keep warm.

40来个小时之内，旅途上没有什么好玩的事情发生。我为了消磨时间，带了一本简装本的《十日谈》，一路上欣赏卜迦丘的风趣幽默的语言。车到墨西哥城之后，在ADO汽车公司柜台前买票的队伍几乎是绕树三匝，令我大为吃惊。等排到我了， 被告知说没有当天去瓦哈卡的车了，最早一班是次日早上6点的。没法子，买了票，在车站存了行李，到城里去闲逛。至于当夜，只好在车站呆一晚上了。从我带的一本96年的墨西哥指南上，了解到星期天有个旧货市场， 地点很方便，就在美术馆和墨西哥城广场之间的一站。乘地铁到了那里，却打听不到， 才想起来指南一定过期了。不过在美术馆那里，却看到一个旧书市。当然我不会买，都是西语的，而且人在旅途，千里不挑担。然而看到旧书市，顿生一种亲切之感，也不由得去浏览一番。

然后步行到广场，却为广场的热闹大吃一惊。今年墨西哥城在广场搭建了一个溜冰场，占去了广场一半。其余地方则搭起了假的爱斯基摩人的冰屋，供墨西哥儿童找乐子玩。广场北部立着一棵巨大的圣诞树，彩灯烁烁。今年在广场上卖艺的阿兹台克舞者，都被挤到犄角旮旯去了，但仍旧咚咚锵地跳得来劲。

顺便到广场那里04年住过的青年旅社问问床位是否紧张。答曰到时候来就是了。晚上十点过后，乘地铁回北车站。 因为在车站过夜，才注意到北站候车室的铁椅子的设计及其缺德：椅子面前半部是坡下去的。人坐在上面，没法子靠在椅背上打盹，因为一靠身体便会滑下去。很多人在地上睡觉。那地面是用一种带花纹的石头铺成，类似玉石，而且一样是凉性的， 看着比水泥地还凉。这一夜，我只好这里坐坐，那里坐坐。或者从车站这一头走到另一头。我的厚衣服打进行李里存包了， 拿不出来。好在漫漫长夜终有尽时。 早晨6点，终于坐上了去瓦哈卡的车。上车的时候，我注意到旅客在把行李交给装车的人时，都在他们手里塞了一点银子。这倒是头一次见到。我想这小费也许是可有可无的。等我把我那并不大而且并不重的行李交给一个先生后，他并不马上给我装车，而是打着手势明显让我给小费。我给了两个比索，他看了看。我看得出他觉得少，不过我也没理他。上车后，担心这小子别因为这个像《赛因非尔德》里的那个机场搬运工一样，把我行李扔到别的车上去，便又下去看。我已看不见我的行李。那小子看见我，知道我不放心， 打着手势说我的行李没问题。 我无从检查，只好上车了。后来我从瓦卡哈乘坐该公司的车回来的时候，特意问过人家，都说没有小费这么一回事。 瓦哈卡车站的搬运工也没有要小费。我也没有看到有人给他小费。看来是墨西哥城北站的搬运工自己的发明了。

Finally it was time to board the ADO first class bus for Oaxaca. I noticed that passengers were giving luggage workers tips. I never saw such a thing before. When I handed over my luggage, the guy did not immediately put it onto the bus but made a gesture indicating I should pay tips. I gave him 2 pesos. He flipped it over and seemed unsatisfied. I boarded the bus, but later came down to check if my luggage was loaded. The guy recognized me and indicated that my backpack was already loaded. I could not see it anyway, so I just went back hoping he would not pull a trick on me.

Later as I came back from Oaxaca I asked the bus terminal people if passengers should pay tips. They said there was no such a thing. The ADO guy handling luggages at the ADO terminal did not demand any tip.

ADO bus was clean and comfortable. The restroom was especially nice, water and paper and all.

ADO的车都是头等级的。舒适干净。厕所也宽敞，有纸有水。车都是两排坐，没有三排坐，所以那感觉跟飞机的公务舱差不多。

The scenery along the road from DF to Oaxaca was beautiful, lots of lush green. Soon the bus started to climb up mountains. This gave me a better view of the surrounding mountain valleys. I noticed that the hill slope by the side of the road seemed to be covered with a layer of crust. There were some broken parts and I learned that the crust was made of iron wire net, mixed with some grayish thing, possible cement. The net was used to hold the earth from being rushed away by rain.

Along the road, I also saw vast span of uneven land with guts and grooves that seemed to suggest a once upon time flooded basin. Such places are like the brave brushwork in an abstract oil painting.

墨西哥城至瓦哈卡一段，景色不错，因为是南国了， 亚热带。车还要爬坡。我看到路边山坡似乎覆盖着一层皮。有的地方那层皮剥落了。 我想到了古代笑话里说“坡”字的意思乃是“土之皮”（滑为水之骨，坡为土之皮），不由哑然失笑。后来我发现，那层皮乃是人造的，是水泥附着在细密的铁丝网上，用来保护土坡，防止坡土被雨水冲走。

在一些地段，有广阔然而不平坦的山间谷地，中有沟壑，仿佛是数百数千年前大水冲积而成。那些地段让我想起来抽象派油画的粗框笔触。

When the bus arrived at the Oaxaca terminal, I asked a young lady one the bus how far the downtown was from the terminal. She said she was also going there and offered me a ride to the downtown in her taxi. As the taxi entered the downtown I was amazed at the sheer number of people coming and going in the streets. I had the feeling of foreign devils first arriving in a Chinese city in Ming Dynasty, shocked to find the busy markets etc. I had thought I should not stay here for more than two days, now I thought even a week would not be enough.

车到瓦哈卡的时候，我问车上一个年轻女孩车站离市中心远不远。女孩说她也去那里，并且让我搭了她的出租。我说我可以付，但是她坚持。她是从哈里斯克省的瓜达拉哈拉回家省亲的。她很早就离开瓦哈卡了，在瓜达拉哈拉一家IT公司做事。问她会不会说英语，答曰不会。这在中国不可思议。中国凡有大学学历的，都会拽两句英文。墨西哥人即使学过，不用也忘了。他们对英语不像中国人那么在乎。在墨西哥旅游，如果你不会西班牙语，一定麻烦多多。我不知道是墨西哥人懒，还是他们很自信，根本不尿英语这个国际语言。

出租进入瓦哈卡老城，只见城里街上人来人往，熙熙攘攘。我当时的感觉好像是明朝的时候洋鬼子来到了繁华的中国城市，对那里的发达大吃一惊。我曾经像只在瓦哈卡玩两天，现在我感到在这里玩，两三天顶多玩个毛皮， 至少应该玩一个星期。

Before I left for Mexico, I had done some homework and collected information about youth hostels in Oaxaca. There seemed a lot and many were around the city square Zocalo. I did not bother to copy the addresses of these hostels, because their descriptions said they were close to Zocalo. One of them even advertised that they had Chinese speaking personnel and it was two blocks from Zocalo. However, with heavy backpack on my back and another smaller one on my chest, I walked around and asked around and never find the hostel. A resourceful police woman had a list of youth hostels in her hand and marked some on my map. I went to Paulinas, the well known one, only to find they no longer had vacancy. Luckily, on one of the maps I downloaded from internet, I had written the name of a hostel and drew an arrow towards the street where it was located. I went there and they happened to have a place in a 6 person dorm. This youth hostel was originally not my first choice because it was 10 blocks from Zocalo. However, it turned out to be a good choice. The dorm was spacious and clean and the beds were queen beds, not singles beds or bunkers. There were two maids who did a nice job in room service, providing clean towels and new soaps each day. Although no food was included, guests can cook and there was a good market in the town for materials. Next to the hostel was a tour bus service selling tickets for Mounte Alban. The 10 block distance proved to be easy walk and at this distance, the hostel enjoyed some seclusion from the hustle and bustle of the downtown.

From my hostel seeking experience I learned that you had to get the exact address of a hotel or hostel. The streets of downtown are narrow, lined with vendor stalls and also serve as one way traffic roads, With large luggage, it is very difficult to negotiate them.

我在网上查过瓦哈卡的青年旅社资料，但是因为疏忽，只打印了名字，没有地址， 因为网上说那些地方都在广场附近。我想找个年轻游客可以问到。结果问了几个人都说不出个所以然。有个青年旅社，其介绍说有中文服务，而且离广场仅仅两三个街区。那里的街区也不大。可是我背着行囊在几条街之间转了几圈都没有找到。最后累得快虚脱的时候，在自己下载的地图上看到手写的一个旅社的地址。离广场十个街区。找到之后，幸好有床位，而且床都是双人床，很家庭，很干净，110比索一个晚上。旅馆雇佣两个女工作清洁，每天提供新的浴巾和肥皂。虽然不管饭，但是可以做饭， 而老城里就有个各种货物应有尽有的农贸市场。旅馆旁边就是个旅游车站，专卖去瓦哈卡主要景点Mounte Alban的旅游车票。由于旅馆不在老城中心，倒是少了些喧闹。

这次找旅馆的经验告诉我，最好有旅馆的确切地址。瓦哈卡老城街道狭窄，车辆不少， 路边都是货摊，背着行李穿行其中非常狼狈。

Oaxaca is very exotic, with many local women in their traditional dresses and many local food and artisan products in the markets. I was not shocked by the exoticness though, since I knew quite a bit about Oaxacanean culture through m iBest Vendor 03 Wegens Maya Cafe: www.mayacafe.comc d Vendor nBest Vendor 03 Wegens Maya Cafe: www.mayacafe.comb Best Best Best